Choosing a bee feeder is a critical decision that directly impacts your colony's health, your workload, and the security of your apiary. While many types exist, they are broadly divided into two categories: internal feeders placed inside the hive and external feeders placed outside. The best choice depends entirely on your specific goals, the season, and your tolerance for risk.
The most crucial factor is not the feeder's style, but its location. Internal feeders are nearly always superior to external feeders because they protect the colony's food source, prevent life-threatening robbing by other bees, and minimize the spread of disease.
Why You Feed Bees: Aligning the Feeder with the Goal
Before choosing a feeder, you must be clear about your objective. The reason you are feeding dictates the type and volume of syrup required, which in turn points to the ideal feeder.
Supporting a New Colony
A new package or nuc needs a consistent, abundant food source to draw out comb and build its population. This requires a large-volume feeder that provides a steady supply.
Stimulating Brood Rearing
In late winter or early spring, feeding a 1:1 sugar-to-water syrup can simulate an early nectar flow. This encourages the queen to begin laying eggs, ensuring a strong workforce is ready for the actual spring bloom.
Preventing Starvation
During a nectar dearth in summer or heading into winter, colonies can run out of stores. Feeding a thicker 2:1 syrup provides emergency calories and helps them build up honey stores to survive the cold months.
Internal vs. External Feeders: The Most Critical Decision
The placement of your feeder—inside or outside the hive—is the single most important choice you will make.
The Case for Internal Feeding
Internal feeders are placed within the hive's structure. This keeps the syrup exclusive to the colony you intend to feed.
This strategy is highly recommended because it dramatically reduces the risk of robbing, a situation where stronger hives or other insects attack a weaker hive to steal its resources. Internal feeding also protects the syrup from rain, dilution, and contamination.
The Dangers of External Feeding
External feeders are placed at the hive entrance or in the open. While seemingly convenient for refilling, they create a "free-for-all" that can have devastating consequences.
They attract bees from other hives, as well as wasps and ants, which can trigger robbing and overwhelm your colony. This method also increases the potential for spreading diseases between different colonies in your apiary.
A Breakdown of Common Bee Feeder Types
Each feeder type presents a unique set of advantages and disadvantages related to capacity, hive disturbance, and bee safety.
Hive Top Feeders (Internal)
These feeders sit directly on top of the uppermost hive body, under the outer cover. They function like a large trough and often hold several gallons of syrup.
Pros: They have a very large capacity, minimizing the need for frequent refills. You can refill them with minimal disturbance to the bees.
Cons: Bees can drown if the feeder doesn't have proper floats or screened-off sections. In cold weather, the large volume of syrup can chill the cluster below.
Frame Feeders (Internal)
Also known as division board feeders, these are thin, hollow containers shaped like a standard frame. They hang inside the hive body, replacing one or two of the frames.
Pros: They are completely enclosed within the hive, offering maximum protection against robbing. Their capacity is typically good, holding one to two gallons.
Cons: Bees can easily drown without floats or ladders inside. You must open the hive completely to check and refill the feeder, which can be disruptive.
Bucket / Gravity Feeders (Internal or External)
These are simple containers, like a pail or jar, with tiny holes in the lid. When inverted over the inner cover's hole, a vacuum is formed that allows bees to drink without the syrup pouring out.
Pros: They are excellent for simulating a slow, natural nectar flow. They are easy to fill and clean, and when placed over the inner cover, they are protected inside the hive.
Cons: If the seal isn't perfect, they can leak and drench the colony. Their capacity is often smaller than top or frame feeders.
Entrance / Boardman Feeders (External)
This is the most common feeder seen by beginners. It consists of a small, inverted jar that plugs into a tray placed at the hive entrance.
Pros: They are cheap and make it very easy to see how much syrup is left.
Cons: This is the worst feeder for promoting robbing. Its small capacity requires constant refilling, and it exposes the syrup to pests and the elements. Most experienced beekeepers strongly advise against their use.
Understanding the Trade-offs
Choosing a feeder is an exercise in risk management. Your primary duty is to feed your bees without introducing new dangers to the colony.
The High Risk of Robbing
External feeding teaches bees that a food source exists outside the hive. This can trigger robbing behavior, where foragers from strong hives overwhelm a weaker colony's guard bees and steal all of their honey and syrup, often killing the colony in the process.
Preventing Bee Drowning
Any feeder with open access to syrup is a drowning hazard. Bees are not strong swimmers. Always use feeders that have built-in ladders, floats (like wood chips or plastic pieces), or screens that allow bees to drink safely without falling in.
Maintaining Hive Hygiene
Syrup can ferment and grow mold, which can make your bees sick. It is crucial to clean your feeders thoroughly between refills to prevent the growth of harmful pathogens. External feeders are particularly susceptible to contamination from other insects and debris.
Making the Right Choice for Your Hive
Select your feeder based on the specific needs of your colony and your commitment to its safety.
- If your primary focus is colony safety and preventing robbing: Use an internal feeder like a hive top or frame feeder.
- If your primary focus is rapid growth for a new or weak colony: A large-capacity hive top feeder provides the most food with the least disturbance.
- If your primary focus is simulating a slow, steady nectar flow: An inverted bucket feeder placed over the inner cover is the ideal tool.
- If you are considering an entrance feeder for convenience: Re-evaluate your priorities, as the risk of robbing and disease often outweighs the convenience.
Ultimately, the best feeding strategy protects your bees while providing the nourishment they need to thrive.
Summary Table:
| Feeder Type | Placement | Key Advantage | Main Disadvantage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hive Top Feeder | Internal | Large capacity, minimal disturbance | Risk of drowning/chilling bees |
| Frame Feeder | Internal | Maximum robbing protection | Requires opening hive to refill |
| Bucket/Gravity Feeder | Internal/External | Simulates natural nectar flow | Can leak if seal is imperfect |
| Entrance Feeder | External | Easy to check syrup level | High risk of robbing and disease |
Protect Your Investment and Ensure Your Colony's Success
Choosing the right feeding equipment is a cornerstone of successful beekeeping. At HONESTBEE, we supply commercial apiaries and beekeeping equipment distributors with the durable, high-capacity internal feeders—like hive top and frame feeders—that are essential for safe, efficient, and large-scale operations.
Our wholesale-focused solutions are designed to minimize risks like robbing and drowning, helping you maintain strong, productive hives. Let us equip your business with the reliable tools needed for healthy colonies and a healthier bottom line.
Contact HONESTBEE today to discuss your wholesale feeder needs and secure your apiary's future.
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