The defining characteristic of a top-bar hive is the absence of four-sided frames, relying instead on individual wooden bars from which bees draw comb downwards naturally. Unlike vertical box hives, these hives typically feature a horizontal, trough-like body with sloped sides and precise dimensions designed to align with the bees' natural building instincts.
A top-bar hive acts as a single-story cavity where the hive geometry—specifically the angle of the walls and the width of the bars—replaces the need for complex internal frames. The design prioritizes natural comb structure over maximum honey extraction speed.
The Critical Geometry of the Hive Body
The Sloped Sides
The most distinct visual feature of a Kenyan Top-Bar Hive (KTBH) is the trapezoidal cross-section. The sides should slope inward toward the bottom, creating an interior angle of 120 degrees relative to the bottom board (or a 30-degree slope from vertical).
Why the Angle Matters
This specific angle mimics the natural curvature of honeycomb cells. By adhering to this geometry, you discourage bees from attaching their wax comb to the walls of the hive. This ensures that when you lift a bar, the comb comes up freely rather than tearing away from the side.
Body Dimensions
While the length is flexible, plans frequently recommend a length of roughly 1 meter (approx. 3 to 4 feet). The hive body is typically between 30 cm and 50 cm (12 to 20 inches) wide at the top.
Depth Limitations
The interior depth is generally limited to 12 inches (300 mm) or less. If the hive is deeper than this, the weight of a heavy, honey-filled comb may cause the wax to detach from the wooden bar, leading to collapse.
The Top Bar Assembly
Precision Width
The width of the top bar is the most critical dimension for management. Bars are typically 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inches (32 to 35 mm) wide. This specific measurement represents the sum of the comb thickness plus one "beespace," encouraging the colony to build exactly one straight comb per bar.
Comb Guides
Because there are no frames to guide construction, the underside of the top bar requires a starter guide. This is often a spline, wooden ridge, or groove coated with beeswax. This guide provides the bees with a clear starting point to draw straight comb along the length of the bar.
Suspension Ears
The bars feature "ears" or extensions on the ends that allow them to hang from the hive walls, serving as the only contact points. The middle section of the bar is often thicker than the ears to provide a better grip for the beekeeper and reduce the build-up of excess wax (burr comb) between bars.
Entrance and Insulation Features
Low Entrance Placement
Entrances are typically located low on the hive body, often near the floor. This placement prevents winter heat—which rises—from escaping the cluster.
Size and Adjustability
Rather than a large gap, entrances often consist of a series of holes (approx. 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter). These can be easily plugged with corks to regulate traffic or seal the hive for winter.
Cleaning Access
Some entrance holes should be positioned flush with the interior floor (bottom board). This allows the bees to easily drag debris and dead bees out of the hive without lifting them over a threshold.
Understanding the Trade-offs
Comb Fragility
The most significant limitation of this design is that the combs are supported only from the top. Unlike framed hives, new wax combs are extremely fragile and must be handled with care to prevent them from breaking off the bar due to gravity or lateral movement.
No Centrifugal Extraction
Because the comb is not reinforced by wire or a wooden frame, you cannot spin these combs in a standard honey extractor. Harvesting honey usually involves the "crush and strain" method, which destroys the comb and requires the bees to rebuild it.
Making the Right Choice for Your Goal
When designing or selecting a top-bar hive, success depends on adhering to the dimensions that respect bee biology.
- If your primary focus is Ease of Management: Ensure your top bars are exactly 1 3/8 inches wide to prevent cross-combing, where bees connect multiple bars together.
- If your primary focus is Comb Stability: strictly limit the internal depth of the hive body to 12 inches to prevent honey-heavy combs from collapsing under their own weight.
Adhering to the 120-degree wall angle is the single most effective way to ensure your inspections remain non-destructive.
Summary Table:
| Feature | Key Dimension / Specification | Functional Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Wall Angle | 120-degree inward slope | Prevents bees from attaching comb to the hive walls. |
| Bar Width | 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inches (32-35 mm) | Ensures one straight comb per bar based on natural bee space. |
| Body Depth | Maximum 12 inches (300 mm) | Prevents heavy honey combs from collapsing or detaching. |
| Body Shape | Trapezoidal/Horizontal Trough | Mimics natural cavities and allows for frame-less management. |
| Comb Guide | Wax-coated spline or groove | Directs bees to build straight comb along the bar's center. |
| Entrances | Small holes near the floor | Regulates ventilation and assists in debris removal. |
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