The most effective and reliable method for re-waxing plastic bee frame foundation is the foam paint brush technique. After ensuring your plastic foundation is thoroughly clean and dry, you should apply melted beeswax using a disposable foam brush with a specific multi-directional stroke pattern. This method offers superior control compared to rolling or dipping, ensuring the wax adheres to the ridges without clogging the cells.
The goal of re-waxing is to build up a tactile guide for the bees on the embossed ridges without filling the bottom of the cells. A fast, light-handed application creates a "white tracery" pattern that encourages bees to draw out new comb rapidly.
Executing the Foam Brush Technique
Melting the Wax
Begin by melting your beeswax in a crock pot. This maintains a consistent temperature and keeps the wax in a liquid state for the duration of the work.
Wax Purity Requirements
For the specific purpose of coating plastic foundation, the beeswax does not need to be highly purified. In fact, using slightly less clean wax can be more attractive to the bees than highly processed wax.
The Application Stroke
Use a disposable foam paint brush. The key is to use a fast, light-handed stroke. Do not paint slowly or heavily, as this will deposit too much wax.
Directionality Matters
Apply the wax in three specific stages to ensure coverage on all sides of the embossed ridges.
- First, stroke across the foundation's long direction.
- Next, stroke across the short direction.
- Finally, apply strokes on both diagonals.
Visual Cues and Material Management
What Success Looks Like
When done correctly, the new wax will cool into a clear, white tracery of the cell pattern. You should see wax built up on the ridges, but the "valleys" (the bottom of the cells) should remain relatively clear.
Estimating Wax Usage
This method is efficient but requires sufficient material to be effective. You can expect one pound of beeswax to generously recoat approximately 10 to 11 deep frames.
Understanding the Trade-offs
Brush vs. Roller or Dipping
While dipping the frames or using a paint roller are common alternative methods, they are generally less reliable than the brush method. Dipping often results in a coating that is too thick, obscuring the cell pattern, while rollers may not coat the vertical sides of the ridges effectively.
The Risk of Over-Waxing
The primary pitfall in this process is applying too much wax. If you fill the cells completely, you defeat the purpose of the embossed pattern. The bees require the ridges to be prominent to recognize where to build the cell walls.
Making the Right Choice for Your Goal
To ensure your re-waxing project leads to successful comb building, consider these factors:
- If your primary focus is maximum bee acceptance: Prioritize the multi-directional stroke pattern (long, short, diagonal) to ensure every ridge is coated, which acts as a lure for the bees.
- If your primary focus is material efficiency: Plan your resources carefully; ensure you have at least one pound of wax for every 10 deep frames you intend to restore.
- If your primary focus is salvaging old equipment: Only proceed if the frame is completely clean and dry; re-waxing is the best solution for frames where old comb was removed due to age or pest damage.
By mastering the light-handed foam brush technique, you turn old plastic frames into highly attractive foundations that your bees will readily accept.
Summary Table:
| Feature | Foam Brush Technique | Roller Method | Dipping Method |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wax Control | Superior (Light & Precise) | Moderate | Poor (Often too thick) |
| Cell Pattern | Preserves Ridge Detail | May miss vertical edges | Often clogs cells |
| Efficiency | 1 lb wax per 10-11 frames | Variable | Low (Heavy usage) |
| Bee Acceptance | High (White tracery lure) | Moderate | Low (If over-waxed) |
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